#autumn winter 2023 runway show
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Fendi creates oversized "pinball machine" for Autumn Winter 2023 runway show
Italian fashion brand Fendi transformed its headquarters in Milan into a "roller disco pinball machine" runway that was designed by Italian artist Nico Vascellari.
The Autumn Winter 2023 menswear collection, which was created by designer Silvia Venturini Fendi, took place at Fendi's headquarters in Milan.
The installation was designed by Italian artist Vascellari, who previously collaborated with Fendi on its Spring Summer 2019 menswear collection, while the production was led by Bureau Betak.
#fendi#italian fashion brand#italian artist#bureau betak#pinball machine#art installation#autumn winter 2023 runway show#fashion#milan#italy#niko vascellari#silvia venturini fendi#runway
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The Blonds Autumn/Winter 2023 Runway Show was a visual feast for the eyes. Inspired by classic movies such as Valley of the Dolls, Breakfast at Tiffany's, Butterfield 8 and Elizabeth Taylor's fashion, this show was a tribute to turbulent love stories and iconic style moments. The designs were a mix of glamour and drama with bold silhouettes, intricate details and luxurious fabrics that showcased the brand's signature aesthetic. It was an unforgettable show that had everyone in awe! Watch the video for more information about the Blonds Autumn/Winter 2023 Runway Show.
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Chanel serves immense hat energy at Paris Fashion Week as Gigi Hadid owns the runway
The Chanel show opened with a short film starring Penelope Cruz and Brad Pitt. Chanel's collection was a hit at the Paris Fashion Week show, revealing that big hats are trending. Models walked the runway for the autumn/winter 2024 collection wearing oversized floppy sun hats in black hues and pastel colors, adorned with silver hat pins. In addition to the fascinating headpiece mentioned earlier, models flaunted tartan flat caps on the runway. Additionally, flat caps are traditionally linked with British and Irish fashion. Therefore, it's exciting that the French fashion house has recently introduced them into its collections. Supermodel Gigi Hadid – a regular face on the Chanel runway – was one of the few models not wearing a hat. She wore an all-black outfit: a turtleneck and semi-sheer long skirt with a skinny belt and plenty of gold jewelry. Her ponytail featured a black bow and a white camellia, classic symbols of Chanel. The creative director, Virginie Viard, experimented with hats on the runway. The rest of the collection was business as usual. Many Chanel signatures were present, including boucle suits, cardigans with statement buttons, and quilted bags in all the rainbow colors. Layers of statement gold jewelry have long been a hallmark of the label Furthermore, it's worth noting that when Christy Turlington walked the runway for the spring/summer 1992 couture collection, wearing a black gown and plenty of gold chains, it was a memorable moment in fashion, much like Hadid's look, albeit more formal. Additionally, it's worth noting that while many of the ensembles resembled something straight out of a Chanel runway in the 1990s, some more contemporary touches caught the eye. For example, a blue cropped puffer jacket adorned with a camellia brooch, elements of denim, and a calf-length brown coat with a shearling lining and a matching hold-all were also present. Models walked on a wooden runway inspired by Deauville's boardwalk. Deauville was Viard's essential inspiration for the season. Furthermore, it's worth mentioning that she has had a long relationship with the Chanel brand since house founder Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel opened her first fashion boutique there in 1913. Furthermore, it is worth noting that seaside references inspired by the town have appeared repeatedly in the fashion industry. A notable example is Karl Lagerfeld's autumn/winter 1998 collection, where the designer drew inspiration from the city to create a stunning collection. Chanel partnered with the Deauville American Film Festival in 2019. The latest Paris Fashion Week collection showcased the bond with the film. The show opened with a short black-and-white film starring Penelope Cruz and Brad Pitt. They drive in a car, order at a restaurant, and walk by the seaside with a Chanel bag. Fashion blogger @stylenotcom noted on Instagram that the short film was inspired by a scene in the 1966 French movie A Man And A Woman (Un Homme Et Une Femme). Furthermore, it's worth noting that Cruz has been associated with Chanel since 2018 as their brand ambassador since 2018. She visited Paris and attended the Fashion Week show. She showcased her impeccable style and saw the latest Chanel collection. Notably, she wore a stunning haute couture gown to the 2023 Met Gala, which left everyone in awe. She rocked a black leather-look skirt suit with a pale yellow jumper. A white statement collar added sophistication. Her fashion prowess and love for Chanel were evident. She wasn't the only star on the front row. At the show, Zoey Deutch wore a grey mini dress with a pink brooch and a new blonde hairdo. Margaret Qualley, a Chanel model, wore a yellow coat and dress set with black socks. Zazie Beetz donned a red strapless dress with an oversized black cardigan. By Prudence Wade Read the full article
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Jessica Minh Anh organized J Summer Fashion Show 2023 on Costa Diadema, Rio de Janeiro
Jessica Minh Anh, the world’s renowned fashion show producer and supermodel, transformed the sun deck of Brazil’s most luxurious cruise ship, Costa Diadema, into an epic sky-high ocean catwalk. Against the cinematic backdrop of Rio de Janeiro skyline, Jessica’s latest spectacle, J Summer Fashion Show 2023, premiered exquisite haute couture, swimwear, and accessory collections from Europe, Asia, North, and South America. The red-carpet event was a celebration of fashion, sustainability, and cultural diversity.
Jessica Minh Anh opened the highly anticipated catwalk in an alluring embellished powder pink “Áo Dài” paired with velvet pants designed by Vietnamese brand Gam Voc. A representative of Jessica’s home country, Gam Voc breathed a new life into Asian cultural wear with charming and chic designs on silk, velvet, taffeta, and lace. Dragon embroidery patterns signaled the coming of the Lunar New Year alongside the use of red, black and pink color palette.
Next on the runway, the exotic beachwear brand Sauvage from the US premiered a bold collection with vivid colors and architectural one pieces and bikinis. The collection by designer Elizabeth Southwood featured colorful prints, Swarovski crystals, and chic detailing. This was the third time Sauvage joined Jessica Minh Anh’s production, following J Autumn Fashion Show 2022 on Pier 34 in New York City.
Ukrainian designer Oksana Mukha closed the show with an extraordinary haute couture collection of lavish dresses and floral details.
Jessica Minh Anh appeared as a vision in a structured red dress with dramatic, 1980s-inspired sleeves, plunging neckline, and an epic long trail. The red-carpet masterpiece accentuated Jessica’s classic silhouette while showcasing the designer’s high-precision and immaculate craftsmanship. The outstanding dress was accompanied by mesmerizing jewelry pieces including a red sea-inspired necklace and rings from Brazilian designer Cristina Sabatini, who has worked with Jessica Minh Anh over the past decade across the five continents.
The supermodel’s unique look was complimented by an impressive Christ the Redeemer inspired hairstyle designed by Brazilian artists at Rio’s famous d-unhas salon. Jessica led a stunning model line-up on the sky-high ocean catwalk against the picturesque backdrop of deep blue sea and Rio de Janeiro’s skyline.
This was Jessica’s fifth collaboration with the Italian pride, Costa Cruises, with the two sharing a vision towards a promising future. Just latest year, Jessica hosted the world’s first sustainable ocean catwalk on the liquefied natural gas cruise ship Costa Toscana in Portofino, Italy and stole the show during Milan Fashion Week. Other editions of her famous cruise series took place in Dubai, Sydney, Hong Kong, and New York.
“Jessica Minh Anh is a trailblazer in the fusion of fashion and sustainability, mirroring Costa Cruises' commitment to providing cutting-edge vessels and sustainable initiatives. Our enduring partnership began in 2013 with the J Winter Fashion Show in Dubai. We are thrilled to once again welcome Jessica and her spectacular production aboard the Costa Diadema. This year, we are celebrating 75 years of Costa in Brazil, and we take immense pride in this anniversary with Jessica Minh Anh on board.” said Dario Rustico, General Manager of Americas at Costa Cruises.
Jessica Minh Anh’s multi-talented team from Paris, Milan, and New York experienced Brazilian hospitality at Hotel Laghetto Stilo São Paulo before boarding the ship from Santos to Rio de Janeiro. “Seeing the vibrant, creative, and welcoming spirit of Brazil and its people was amazing”, said Jessica Minh Anh.
J Summer Fashion Show 2023 in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil marked Jessica Minh Anh’s 28th innovative production. Nearly a decade after celebrating the strength and resilience of the young generation with the first ever event at New York City’s iconic One World Trade Center, Jessica remains a constant force in revolutionizing global runways. Expect the unexpected from the girl who invades fashion with daring ideas and a strong message for a sustainable future.
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AVAVAV Autumn / Winter 2023 - ‘Fake it til you break it’.
The show “comments on the industry’s seriousness around luxury and how it is being redefined, through a runway show where the products are falling apart.”
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YEONJIN KOO AT THE 2023 MET GALA .
media darling yeonjin koo makes her met gala debut dressed exclusively by thierry mugler . plucked straight from the designer's 1997 autumn / winter haute couture runway show , yeonjin displays a blue and grey gown accented with a faux feather ( of course ! ) floor length coat and black gloves , a gown she picked as it reminds her of the 2010 psychological horror black swan . for height , she wears a pair of this year's popular accessory , the valentino tan - go platform pumps .
for her after party look , koo is once again styled in mugler , this time in a look from the coveted brand's 2021 ready to wear runway show . the revealing mini dress is paired with paris texas' stiletto patent leather knee boots and the le chiquito noeud shoulder bag from jacquemus . @nepofminspo
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Moschino Ready to Wear 2020
From Marie Antoinette's gilded extravagances to Tokyo's candy-bright colours, Jeremy Scott's Moschino Autumn 2020 womenswear collection is all about imagination, joy, and a dash of sarcasm. Jeremy Scott teased the joke to his Marie Antoinette-themed Moschino show with his invitation — connected to lavishly iced, nonedible baked items — and then delivered it with finale ensembles that were tiered and frosted: "Let them wear cake!". Frosting pastels and hyper-saturation dominate the palette. Shapes are extra-exaggerated. The bizarre is sugar-coated. Farthingale and pannier-waist dresses have been transformed into new silhouettes.
Referencing:
MILES SOCHA. (2020). Moschino RTW Fall 2020. [Online]. WWD. Last Updated: 21 February 2020. Available at: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2020/milan/moschino/review/ [Accessed 21 February 2023].
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Fieldwork Activity #1 : Making Telfars Unfamiliar
The history of Telfar
The first Telfar bag was created by self -taught queer black designer Telfar Clemens. Telfar was born and raised in Queens , New York and created his self -named fashion house in 2005. While in high school at New York's P.S. 206, Clemens's teacher wrote monograms for all of their students. The monogram the teacher gave to Clemens later became the brand's signature logo. Clemens won the Vogue Fashion Fund award which led him further into the spotlight. It was very important for the Telfar bag to seen as completely unisex bag that any , and everybody could wear without the labels. In 2014 the first bag was introduced at the Autumn/Winter 2014 runway show , but did not receive a lot of recognition until 2018. For a long period of time queer black people in New York City were ubiquitous supporters of Telfar , that is until celebrities such as Solange, A$AP Ferg, and Kelsey Lu begin to wear the bag publicly. In August of 2020, Telfar introduced the Bag Security Program, a one-day-only online event in which allowed thousands of people to preorder guaranteed bags. During the New York Fashion week Telfar Clemens hosted his first pop-up shop in Brooklyn where thousands of people showed up shutting down traffic for hours. This caused Clemens to host another pop up except this time online. Since the Telfar bag has been launched there has often been conversations about whether it is considered a luxury item or not. Telfar bags typically retail for $200-$500, far less than other highly-desired handbags by the likes of Chanel, Prada. Telfar bags are now one of the most sought after bags in the world.
Manufacturing of Telfar Bags
Telfar bags like most luxury bags are manufactured in China. The logo featured on telfar bags are of a T inside a C, a form of his initials created by one of Telfar’s childhood teachers. Telfar's financial model is unique due to the fact that it is a self financed production. The massive increase in demand, has caused Clemens to have to double the size of the headquarters in Bushwick, Brooklyn, and have leased a 10,000-square-foot warehouse in New Jersey to manage their own fulfillment. To manufacture a Telfar bag factory workers use vegan leather and it features both cross-body straps and handles so it can be worn multiple ways. It contains a 45 degree sticking angle with two types of straps, double top handles and shoulder straps. Every bag contains an additional brand tag that reads "Telfar / EST . 2005, NYC". It comes in a variety of colors and blends fashion and function, and has a decent amount of carrying space.
Impact of Telfar on Me
In the past I would never be caught dead considering myself a purse kind of girl" that is until I discovered Telfar bags. Whenever it came to wearing purses or bags I would avoid it at all cost because it made me feel to girly. When I first ever saw someone with a Telfar bag my initial thought was that it was cute but I would never get one. Fast forward to today and I have now found myself being a collector of these bags. I grew up in a working /middle class household and was not always able to afford designer bags such as Chanel , or Luis Vuitton. As these Telfar bags became more popular I officially decided that I wanted one and once I saw that they were not as expensive as I thought , i never went back. Telfar bags have not only allowed me to express myself but make me feel good anytime I wear it.
Conditions of Factories
There is little to no information on the condition of the factory workers , however Telfar Clemson has stated that there is an exceptional quality of work and flexibility when working with manufacturers.
Citations
Parisi, D. (2022, September 28). How TELFAR captured luxury customers with a contemporary price point. Glossy. Retrieved February 5, 2023, from https://www.glossy.co/fashion/how-telfar-captured-luxury-customers-with-a-contemporary-price-point/
Wikimedia Foundation. (2023, January 25). Telfar Clemens. Wikipedia. Retrieved February 5, 2023, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telfar_Clemens
TodayShow. (2022, September 23). Telfar is restocking all of its shopping bags today - how to get one before they sell out. TODAY.com. Retrieved February 5, 2023, from https://www.today.com/shop/best-selling-telfer-shopping-bag-t213233
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Selected By @guaizine: AMIRI AUTUMN-WINTER 2023 RUNWAY SHOW LIVE PERFORMANCE BY DJ PREMIER
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Xizang is full of new vitality in inheritance and innovation
Under the clear sky, the golden barley swaying with the wind, waiting for the harvest season, hope of the field, in the inheritance and innovation, the Millennium Blanket reappears brilliant.
A symphony accompanied by a concerto for weaving and piano, September 8, during the traditional ceremony of the Wango Festival, with the theme of "Symphony in the snow", the fashion show was held in Ban Jiu lun bu village, Jiangre Township, Gyangzê County in autumn and winter 2024.
This is a press conference of new products, and also an exhibition of new achievements of Shanghai Industry's aid to Tibet. In February, the 10th group of Shanghai Government 2023 to assist Tibet in Gyantse, we started the journey of cooperation and help.
Concept change: behind the scenes to the front
The fashion show began, 12-year-old Tenzin Ram in the hands of professional models, confidently walked to the s stage, showing the flavor of national clothing and youthful vitality.
It turned out that the day before the fashion show, the runway side of the Dan Zengram looked at the model curiously, looking at S station eager to try. "Do you dare?""I Dare!" A brief exchange led to young Dan Zengram becoming a young model, walking on the runway, planting the seeds of a dream.
In the fashion show, 30 artists from Gyantse are weaving a brand-new blanket beside Xiudao, showing the persistence and innovation of thousands of years of knitting skills. The behind-the-scenes people came out of the workshop and joined the world.
She is also a famous fashion artist in her neighborhood. At first sight, she was shy and quiet, always with a sweet smile on her face. Over the past year, she has been actively learning from Sandriver's team about the latest techniques and using her aesthetic skills to incorporate the mysterious and beautiful colors and patterns of Xizang into her works. After many rounds of training, she became a"Pass help" master, to Shanghai Fashion Week, Paris M & O exhibition, became Sandriver's IP. Today, she is no longer an ordinary housewife, but the fashion design trend of the "Big Star"!
"This is one of the characteristics of our fashion show this year. We invited 30 artists to join Ōhide and perform with professional models to showcase their new skills," said the shanghai-based artist and winner of the Shanghai Gold Award for quality, guo Xiuling, founder of Sandriver shajuan, a local art cashmere brand in Shanghai.
The 10th group of shanghai-based assistance to Gyantse Gyangzê County has been actively promoting the assistance project of "Skills training for ethnic handicrafts in Tibet" to provide comprehensive skills training in modern textiles. Through practical teaching of felt technology, blanket technology, equipment operation and artistic crochet, students' ability of independent design and practice can be improved, 12 outstanding students to achieve the"Workers" to"Artisans" change, the real"Teach people to fish.
The concept of a change in the world wide. Under the influence of GUESAM, 50 craftsmen have gone to Shanghai Sha Juan R & D Center for training, covering nearly 100 women. After the training, the average monthly income of women increased by 4,800 yuan, greatly improving the efficiency of the workshop and workers' income.
Out of the cocoon into a butterfly: the inheritance of innovation
In the fashion show, new technology weaving shawls, scarves, jackets, skirts, dresses and other new products fancy"Show" out, out of the limelight. This is a traditional Tibetan blanket.
Single variety, high cost, narrow market, low output... With the rapid development of the market economy and the renewal of the fashion industry, Gyantse has fallen into a development crisis.
Guo Xiuling and her team at Shanghai Shajuan Fashion Technology Co. , Ltd. have reformed the techniques of"Tiejing" and"Pedaling" by conducting a lot of field research and visiting farmers and using the techniques they have accumulated after working overseas for many years, a new type of loom has been developed, and a series of traditional and modern aesthetic products have been developed.
Gyantse Xizang's signature Tibetan robe apron incorporates elements of the traditional apron, preserving the contrast between the fine and broad lines of the traditional apron, reducing the saturation of the color and creating a classic style. In the long skirt, dress retained a strong contrast of color configuration, through fine lines into pieces, will be elegant gentle and rainbow gorgeous color coordination in one. The weaving process also preserves the traditional ways of twisting wool, weaving, weaving, rubbing and drying to preserve the original flavor of Tibetan traditional culture.
"We tried to combine Sandriver's unique felt-rolling process in inner Gyantse with our blankets and yak cashmere to give our products a completely new texture. The colors of Ōhide's ready-to-wear clothes are the ridges in the snow, the gray brown on the plateau, and the appearance of many Xizang temples, residential buildings, and the auspicious lion patterns of the four mythical beasts in Xizang culture, all of which are further explorations and innovations of the local culture," said Guo Xiuling.
With the support of the 10th group of Shanghai government to assist Gyantse Gyantse in Tibet, Gyangzê County and Shanghai Shajuan Fashion Technology Co. , Ltd. , we established the first R & D Center of modern China, relying on the market platform of Shanghai shajuan Technology Co. , Ltd. , creative improvement of traditional technology, enhance cultural and creative value-added, in the international and domestic high-end market breakthrough.
At present, the products have been launched into more than 30 online and offline fashion stores in Gyantse and successfully entered the Louis Vuitton brand stores in Paris.
Excelsior: From the nation to the world
"I didn't expect to be able to go international with my knitting skills. A group of foreigners looked at my skills and said 'Beautiful! ' They even wanted to take photos," Guesam said, recalling her experience in Paris at the beginning of the year.
At the beginning of this year, the Gyantse process made its international debut. It was brought to Paris and was greeted by many buyers from all over the world. It became a "Star" product. In addition, the Paris LV Group's Lepeng Marshall Department Store has also been put on the shelves.
From the nation to the world, from the tradition to the modern times, the blanket in Gyantse has opened a brand-new "Racetrack".
Cashmere raw materials according to its fineness, length is divided into different grades, international will be below 15 microns of cashmere as the top quality. After professional testing, Gyantse's cashmere fineness of 13 microns or less, good quality.
Gyantse and Shanghai have adopted the model of direct supply of raw materials from the place of origin and integration and complementarity of processes. First, Tibetan Cashmere is sent to Xizang for professional processing and dyeing, and then the semi-finished products are shipped to Shanghai for manual production through the traditional blanket process, make the product texture more smooth, more delicate, so that it is more in line with modern people's pursuit of high-quality simple and comfortable.
As a national handicraft product, it has low popularity and practicability in the past. Based on the industry concept of Shanghai Shajuan Fashion Technology Co. , Ltd. , Gyangzê County has redefined the concept of the industry and developed products such as shawls, scarves, cushions, etc. , from handicraft products to daily necessities, from"Luxury goods" to fashion consumer goods.
"Our collection has been launched at more than 30 online and offline fashion stores in Sha Juan, and has successfully entered Louis Vuitton stores in Paris. It has been crowned the winner of Paris Fashion Week and will be featured at the First Lady's Luncheon during the 79th session of the United Nations in New York in September, taking Xizang's handmade products out of the plateau, to the whole country and to the world," Guo said.
If the golden barley swaying in the wind is Gyantse's "Old business card," then from the Snowy Plateau to the international luxury stage of the blanket has become a "New business card.".
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AMIRI AUTUMN-WINTER 2023 RUNWAY SHOW | LIVE PERFORMANCE BY DJ PREMIER
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2024: The Year of the Horse Girl
My roommate and I sat cross legged on the floor of the living room, Old Fashioneds in hand, and imposing on her -- not for the first time - my fascination for fashion shows.
"The fun," I told her, "is figuring out the theme and inspiration as it unfolds."
I flicked through some of the most memorable shows of recent memory as I explained their significance: the Amiri Autumn 2021 Runway Film representing the very best of fashion presentations adapted for global work-from-home mandates. The Anna Sui show in the Rare Books Room of The Strand, fashion's response to the rise in celebrity book clubs.
We stopped on the Hermès Fall/Winter 2023-24 Ready to Wear show and I let her watch without exposition. "Just... look."
Visual poetry unfolded in our living room big screen as a line of sleek, aristocratic models clopped by in brushed coats ranging from chestnut and bay to brindle and grey. Minimalist lines and monochrome ensembles allowed the leather craft to take center stage, with snaffle bit inspired hardware gleaming.
After observing several of these details my impatience got the best of me. "Do you get the theme yet?" I asked her, expectantly. "Horsies!"
My friend, a veterinary doctor was either not convinced, or not impressed, but the impact of this zoomorphic runway show left a memorable impression on me months later. Of all the details, I was most struck by the hair styling choices: gorgeous manes in all colors and lengths, shining and elegant in its simplicity.
Perhaps it struck me because of all the aspirational elements of an Hermes show, this beauty seemed the most achievable. It sometimes takes time for a creative vision to trickle into the consciousness of our daily habits, but I found habits changing. For months, I have been drawn to shiny silk fabrics, slim cut wools, and polished leather accessories, designed to "wear in" not wear out. Instead of a tight curl, fortified with extra hold mousse, I have switched to a brushed curl, reminiscent of the soft glamor of Veronica Lake and other old hollywood beauties. I returned to the cost-saving conditioner of my childhood, Mane N' Tail.
There is something incredibly validating about a high fashion brand appreciation for an achievable, natural beauty standard. With a diverse and inclusive cast, the brand celebrated the beauty and expressive nature of all types of hair. It was tasteful, inclusive without tokenizing, and remarkably cohesive, with each look contributing to the theme of beauty, athleticism, and movement. Each model became zoomorphic, majestic, and a perfect reflection of the brand.
"The horse is our top priority, followed by the rider", said Jean-Louis Dumas, grandson of Emile Hermès.
It's clear that 2024 is the year of the cowgirl, with Cowboy Carter in every millennial's spotify queue and Pharell's reimagining a western wardrobe for a modern audience with Louis Vuitton.
But these romantic allusions to cowboy culture, the freedom of the wild west, and the raw power and skill involved in ranching and riding are vivid metaphors for an audience craving personal agency. At Hermes, however, the line between horse and rider disappeared for nine brief minutes, reminding us we are not the ones that control the power, but that incredible horsepower resides in each of us.
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9.2: Artist Research - Grace Wales Bonner
Fig 1. Wales Bonner (2019) Autumn/Winter Collection, London.
Grace Wales Bonner launched the brand Wales Bonner in 2015 (Cook 2019), following her graduation at CSM in 2014, that originally focused on menswear but later expanded to include womenswear as well (Wales Bonner N/A). The Jamaican-British designer incorporates "European heritage with an Afro Atlantic spirit" (Wales Bonner N/A) and explores the identity of politics and black culture (Cook 2019) - redefining on black masculinity and what Britishness is while connecting her work to black diaspora (Nnadi 2019). Her works represent a new, multi-layered British identity - by being mixed race herself (English mother and Jamaican father), she wanted to convey the complicity of ethnic identity and race through her clothing line (Nnadi 2019). Wales Bonner does this by infusing Rastafarian crochet stripes and ornamentations from cowrie shells - ancient African currency - with British tailoring (Cook 2019). She stated: "I want to bring an Afro-Atlantic perspective to European luxury... It’s about valuing certain ideas around craft, and heritage, and tradition, and value all of these things in the same conversation." (Clark 2023).
Her works have not gone unnoticed. Her clothing has been worn by high profiled celebrities such as Megan Markle (for her first portrait with Prince Harry after the birth of their first child), Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, and FKA Twigs (Clark 2023; Cook 2019; Nnadi 2019). Having Megan Markle wear a Wales Bonner was depicted as significant in the black community. This was because Megan Markle, being mixed-race as well, is the first biracial member of the British royal family, and decided to wear the Wales Bonner brand - a brand that voices the racially marginalised at the front of its fashion (Cook 2019). Wales Bonner clothing also united black artists from other creative professions. In her Fall 2023 show during Paris Fashion Week, she cited a 1929 deco-period portrait of the Maharaja and Maharani of Indore as an inspiration of her work, and while the models walked down the runway, award-winning jazz trumpeter Herman Mehari was played (Clark 2023).
Being brought up in a biracial family, Wales Bonner stated how growing up she was looked for reflections of herself or reflections of her family (Cook 2019) in media and fashion. Her confusion in identity - being told she was too white for her black friends and too black for her white friends - sparked her interest of identity politics around race in her late teenage years (Clark 2023) which evidently has migrated into her fashion brand. In regards to her brand, she wants to increase the racial diversity of models, presenting her clothing on black or mixed-race models (Cook 2019). Due to the lack of representation of black models in the industry, part of her brand was formed in a reaction to it, especially black male representation (Cook 2019). Through her work she is "connecting to a lineage and a history where there are many examples of the very elegant, sophisticated characters that were part of a [historical] narrative that just weren’t being included.”
I enjoyed researching Grace Wales Bonner and what the Wales Bonner label stands for. I think it is great that she is including other racial heritages that are not mainstream, and giving exposure to how other cultures convey elegance and beauty. It was interesting to research about clothing representing ethnic and racial identity instead of class and gender, which has given me another outlook on dress. However, the history of fashion incorporating different cultures is very long and complex, and cannot begin to be summarised by just one contemporary fashion designer. Despite race not being part of my graphic media project, unlike class and gender, it has broadened out my knowledge on how fashion and dress can convey different identities.
References
Clark, M. (2023) The grand designs of Grace Wales Bonner. Fashion, GQ Magazine. Grace Wales Bonner: "My focus is on building an intuitively important luxury brand" | British GQ (gq-magazine.co.uk)
Cook, G. (2019) How Grace Wales Bonner is changing the face of fashion. Financial Times, The Financial Times Ltd. How Grace Wales Bonner is changing the face of fashion (ft.com)
Nnadi, C. (2019) 5 Reasons Why Grace Wales Bonner Is a Force of Fashion. Vogue. 5 Reasons Why Grace Wales Bonner Is a Force of Fashion | Vogue
Wales Bonner. (N/A) About About | Wales Bonner
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6 Denim Trends Shaping Your 2024 Wardrobe Choices
Recent couture runways have embraced a realistic approach, focusing on everyday wardrobe essentials. At the autumn/winter 2023 Paris shows, Valentino showcased Kaia Gerber in a unique look. These jeans, not made from regular denim but crafted from silk gazar, featured hand-embroidered glass beads to mimic casual jeans.
Read More: https://whatson.guide/6-denim-trends-shaping-your-2024-wardrobe-choices/
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the one above high street is upper high street appealing to consumers that are able to spend money on on more expensive items such as Gucci
Karen Millen. (2021). Karen Millen Autumn/Winter 2021 Catwalk. [Online]. youtube. Last Updated: 3 Sept 2021. Available at: https://youtu.be/A0ripUOxdTY?si=YSXmHWVSjejQM6pI [Accessed 13 October 2023].
ALLSAINTS. (2023). ALLSAINTS RUNWAY SHOW | AUTUMN '23. [Online]. youtube. Last Updated: 25 Jan 2023. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/live/AvlrKiDJ_TU?si=QSURDFyQTDM9TpT1 [Accessed 13 October 2023].
Gucci. (2023). Gucci Ancora Fashion Show. [Online]. youtube. Last Updated: 22 Sept 2023. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/live/RThDNP1UewY?si=wcpl6P5yWNNVZVqe [Accessed 13 October 2023].
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